Safranbolu, Part 1

Seventeen years ago, when Jan and I were visiting Turkey, we drove to the historic town of Safranbolu. Binnaz and Ergun had arranged everything, and the four of us spent a few days in the time capsule. Back in those days, I did not write articles on my site. It recently occurred to me that I have not shared the photographs and the experiences in that remarkable place.

So, here comes the much-delayed post. There are likely millions of photographs of Safranbolu and its surroundings. But, I still wanted to share my photographs and experiences primarily for the record. Most of my friends and followers may not know what a jewel the preserved town is. I hope that Safranbolu will remain as a time capsule, echoing the times from the past. Preserve Safranbolu!

Arriving Safranbolu

The drive was uneventful, with occasional stops to enjoy the wildflowers. As we approached Karabük Steelworks, the old structures rose from the ground like rusty ghost town buildings. After that, Safranbolu was almost around the corner, a mere 5-6 miles.

The town has been preserved practically intact. Although its history goes back thousands of years, it reflects the characteristics of the 17^th-century Ottoman era. Named after one of its main products, saffron, it was also where wealth was concentrated.

Paşa Konağı on the Hill

With its narrow streets on steep hills, driving was not easy nor recommended. I remember Ergun arranging for a taxi to drive us back to our hotel, Paşa Konağı because I could not climb the steep inclines. (Pronounce the hotel’s name as Pasha, and konak is the equivalent of a villa or mansion.)

In addition to remarkable architecture with dominant woodwork inside and out, and frescos decorating some walls, the place had another very noticeable characteristic: the absence of noise. It was utterly quiet. The lack of traffic, honking, and busy streets made the quietness strikingly noticeable. The total experience was almost like time travel as if we went back to 1600-1700. Some kind of virtual reality!

Safranbolu on the Hills

I recall thinking that it was established in a canyon with settlements on the hills and the center being the market for everything from memorabilia to food. The central market is called Arasta, with narrow streets and some shops with just enough room for the craftsman, say, a shoemaker. We enjoyed an afternoon coffee at Arasta Kahvesi (coffeehouse) and wandered the narrow streets.

There are indeed canyons nearby one can visit. The owner of Pasa Konagi B&B took us to see their other mansion, and we visited a canyon around it. That even had an aqueduct. In future posts, I will show a few photographs from that trip. Stay tuned.

Woodworking and Ironworks

The houses, mansions, and stores all show great woodworking and masterful ironworks. There is even a district called Demirciler Çarşısı or Ironsmith’s Market. The ceilings in the mansions we visited, probably in all of them, were wood inlays with intricate patterns. Many doorknobs, handles, and knocks are intricate ironwork that I will present in the posts to come.

UNESCO World Heritage Site

In 1994, UNESCO World Heritage Centre declared Safranbolu one of the World Heritage Sites. A distinction and honor the town and its residents should preserve for generations to come. Here are some views from the UNESCO World Heritage Site Safranbolu. There will be more installments of this trip, sharing the fragments of my memory.

Other Parts of This Series