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Home » Safranbolu, Part 1

Safranbolu, Part 1

May 5, 2022 by A. Cemal Ekin
Safranbolu at sunrise

Seventeen years ago, when Jan and I were visiting Turkey we drove to the historic town of Safranbolu. Binnaz and Ergun had arranged everything, and the four of us spent a few days in the time capsule. Back in those days, I did not write articles on my site. It recently occurred to me that I have not shared the photographs and the experiences in that remarkable place.

So, here comes the much-delayed post. There are likely millions of photographs of Safranbolu and its surroundings. But, I still wanted to share my photographs and experiences primarily for the record. Most of my friends and followers may not know what a jewel the preserved town is. And, I hope that Safranbolu will remain as a time capsule echoing the times from the past. Preserve Safranbolu!

Arriving Safranbolu

The drive was uneventful, with occasional stops to enjoy the wildflowers. As we approached Karabük Steelworks, the old structures rose from the ground like rusty ghost town buildings. After that, Safranbolu was almost around the corner, a mere 5-6 miles.

The town has been preserved practically intact. Although its history goes back thousands of years, it reflects the characteristics of the 17th-century Ottoman era. Named after one of its main products, saffron, it was also where wealth was concentrated.

Paşa Konağı on the Hill

With its narrow streets on steep hills, driving is, or was not easy nor was it recommended. I remember Ergun arranging for a taxi to drive us back to our hotel, Paşa Konağı because I could not climb the steep inclines. (Pronounce the hotel’s name as Pasha, and konak is the equivalent of a villa or mansion.)

In addition to remarkable architecture with dominant woodwork inside and out, and frescos decorating some walls, the place had another very noticeable characteristic: the absence of noise. It was utterly quiet. The lack of traffic, honking, and busy streets made the quietness strikingly noticeable. The total experience was almost like time travel as if we went back to 1600-1700. Some sort of virtual reality!

Safranbolu on the Hills

I recall thinking that it was established in a canyon with settlements on the hills and the center being the market for everything from memorabilia to food. The central market is called Arasta with narrow streets and some shops with just enough room for the craftsman, say a shoemaker. I think we enjoyed afternoon coffee at Arasta Kahvesi (coffeehouse) and wandered around the narrow streets.

There are indeed canyons nearby one can visit. The owner of Pasa Konagi B&B took us to see their other mansion, and we visited a canyon around it. That even had an aqueduct. In future posts, I will show a few photographs from that trip. Stay tuned.

Woodworking and Ironworks

The houses, mansions, and stores, all display great woodworking and masterful ironworks. There is even a district called Demirciler Çarşısı or Ironsmith’s Market. The ceilings in the mansions we visited, probably in all of them are wood inlays with intricate patterns. Many doorknobs, handles, and knocks are intricate ironwork that I will present in the posts to come.

UNESCO World Heritage Site

In 1994, UNESCO World Heritage Centre declared Safranbolu one of the World Heritage Sites. A distinction and honor, the town and its residents should preserve it for generations to come. Here are some views from the UNESCO World Heritage Site Safranbolu. There will be more installments of this trip sharing the fragments of my memory.

Wildflowers on the roadside
Karabuk Steel Works
Hills of Safranbolu
Hills of Safranbolu
Our room at Pasha Mansion
Our room at Pasha Mansion
Entrance to Arasta
Door before entering Arasta
Binnaz at Arasta Kahvesi
Jan at Arasta Kahvesi
Arasta cafe window
Arasta streets
Gift shop with Safranbolu houses
Arasta merchants
A shoemaker in his shop
The local photographer
Wooden door
A local climbing the steep street
Sundial, Köprülü Mehmet Paşa Mosque
Safranbolu at sunrise

Parts of This Series

Safranbolu at sunrise

Safranbolu, Part 1

Macunagasi Izzet Efendi Mansion, ceiling detail

Safranbolu, Part 2

Gökçüoğlu Summer Mansion, Safranbolu

Safranbolu, Part 3

Old wooden door, Safranbolu

Safranbolu, Part 4

Related

Category: Architecture, Photography, TravelTag: Architecture, Photography, Travel, Turkey

Kept Light Photography

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Haluk Atamal

    May 5, 2022 at 12:35 pm

    Thanks for the lovely photos, Cemal. I still have never been there but I judge it is worthwhile a visit, especially compared to Beypazarı – Ankara.
    The pricelist on the wall of the Arasta Kahvesi is quite a history now!
    The only photo I did not like was the souvenir shop – too commercial with toy house models, all alike each other.
    I could not quite guess what the instrument was on door #2, upper left. Hopefully not something to draw circles on the wood :)
    Take care and best regards,
    Haluk

    Reply
    • A. Cemal Ekin

      May 5, 2022 at 2:33 pm

      It is worth a trip, Haluk. A delightful experience indeed. I will be glad to provide the contact information of one of the fine places to stay. The next post will feature their house. The souvenir shop was included on purpose to show the tchotchkes offered to the tourists.

      That door with the “instrument” called me with the instrument itself. I have a close-up of the door knocker which over the years made its geometric mark. Randomness can create very orderly patterns.

      Stay tuned for the coming parts, this will take a few weeks! Take care, hello to Turkan and everyone around you.

      Cemal

      Reply
  2. Paul

    May 5, 2022 at 2:57 pm

    Great post to take one back to earlier times. The images were beautiful and very interesting. Looking forward to the next installment.

    Reply
    • A. Cemal Ekin

      May 5, 2022 at 3:14 pm

      The time bus takes us to unexpected places, Paul. The place was quite charming with major historical references to life several hundred years ago. I think I will post at least three more, maybe four. Stay tuned.

      Cemal

      Reply
  3. James Turner

    May 5, 2022 at 8:52 pm

    Lovely images captured the timelessness of that town.

    Reply
    • A. Cemal Ekin

      May 5, 2022 at 9:18 pm

      Thanks, Jim. It is indeed a timeless town. I am disappointed to hear that they are planning to build shopping centers on protected land. More to come.

      Cemal

      Reply
  4. Steve

    May 6, 2022 at 10:43 am

    What a great travel log of your trip complete with outstanding images. National Geographic worthy. Thanks for the trip.
    Steve

    Reply
    • A. Cemal Ekin

      May 6, 2022 at 10:48 am

      Thank you, Steve. The trip will continue for a few weeks. Stay tuned.

      Cemal

      Reply
  5. Reha Günay

    May 7, 2022 at 5:03 am

    Çok güzel bir gezi olmuş. Hem mevsim hem de dönem olarak. Ben de eski günleri anıp efkarlandım. Sağ ol Cemal

    Reply
    • A. Cemal Ekin

      May 7, 2022 at 7:43 am

      Reha, senin cok derin anilarin vardir Safranbolu’da eminim. Gercekten guzel bir gezi idi, sagolsun Ergun herseyi mukemmel ayarlamisti. Bakalim ardindan gelen yazilari ve fotograflari nasil bulacaksin. Bir kac gun sonra yayina girer ikincisi.

      Cok selamlar,

      Cemal

      Reply
  6. Tom & Penny Backman

    May 16, 2022 at 12:24 am

    Lovely photos Cemal. A very beautiful country

    Reply
    • A. Cemal Ekin

      May 16, 2022 at 6:43 am

      Good to hear from you, Tom and Penny. And, I am glad you enjoyed the post, hopefully, the series.

      Take care,

      Cemal

      Reply

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