This post is a rewrite of something old, more than a dozen years, the old houses I saw in Adana. I wanted to write this again since the original slide show is no longer visible, and has not been visible for many years. It is both for the record and to restart the conversation about preserving the character, texture, and history of cities and towns which has been considered highly dispensable in Turkey.
Back in 2003 Jan and I took the train from Istanbul to Adana like I used to do in my childhood. The distance is about 600 miles and most people would take either the plane or drive. These modes of transportation would take far less than what it took us, about 23 hours. But, I enjoyed looking out, remembering my childhood, and old memories. You can see a series of photographs I presented as a portfolio, Passing Through Anatolia.
We arrived in Adana in the middle of the blossoming of citrus trees of all kinds. I remember the smell very well and it was a welcome whiff as we disembarked the train, a highly enjoyable experience indeed.
Then in the next few days, we saw the old friends, family, visited several kebab houses, and took photographs. Seeing the old houses I knew very well in total disarray, disrepair, and total neglect disappointed me immensely. The city I used to know was gone, its character mostly erased, its texture disconnected from history. The houses I found and photographed reminded me of wounded soldiers on a battlefield, laying down and asking “help me or kill me!”
On a dark, overcast day I visited the house where we lived for several years, where I started elementary school. It belonged to a wealthy landlord. One could still see the signs of good taste and high quality in the remaining parts like the wrought iron railings of the balcony or the intricate woodwork around the supports below it. Inside, it was the same.
The current tenant, a small workshop where they made men’s shirts, did very little to make it presentable. I remembered the stairs going up and how the lower level would be flooded when the Seyhan river rose. The wooden clogs would float. The semicircular opening decorated with a fancy iron grill reminded me of the camel caravans going by as I used to watch them from there.
I continued the trek to other parts of the town where more such houses were left to die. Strangely, many of these buildings were “under the protection of the law” that prevented the owners to raze them for other purposes. But, leaving them to die on their own, out of total neglect was perfectly fine!
Nostalgia aside, I found it hard to believe that a rich town like Adana which produced many wealthy landlords, people of national significance, local heroes, could not claim ownership to its past and allowed its history to be more or less erased. The orange groves on the banks of the Seyhan river were gone, cotton fields were no more, the old landmarks like Hilal Han, Evrendilek, Gumusay disappeared along with people who would even remember their names. All this, in the name of “modernization” by erecting apartment buildings.
At the time when I first wrote about this, I sent an e-mail to the publishers of a Website about Adana and its culture. The site domain still exists but it seems to be dormant. For the benefit of Turkish-speaking readers, I am sharing a copy of my letter to the editors of the Acili Birbucuk Website. They published it and I received many “thank you” responses. But, that’s all!
A few weeks ago, I read a post on a photography site I visit often. It was about a photographer reproducing the works of another who photographed New York in the late 19th century. It was remarkable to see how little New York had changed in over 100 years. Kudos to the people of New York for preserving the character and texture of their beloved city. I wish I could say the same for Adana; or for that matter, Istanbul, Ankara, …
Haluk Atamal
Your remarkable sutdy helps the soldier to live – at least on some digital media. The agony is well reflected, alongside with the silent pride of the old culture.
I suddenly felt the need to go through the still remaining old Antalya spots, before they are gone forever.
Thanks for a very necessary study, Cemal. This should be a reminder to all photographers (or non-photographers for that matter) to scratch their backs and start working.
A. Cemal Ekin
Haluk, the Adana I knew had a unique character. The new city they created might as well be from any other country, tall buildings, wide avenues, water fountains, etc. may look “nice” but at the expense of the character of the city and its history. That’s why I was truly impressed by what I saw in New York. Document what you can, what’s gone is gone!
Take care,
Cemal
M.ERDAL KAMIŞLI
Cemal Abi,
It was a great achievent what you did to remind me the good old days of Adana. During your visit to Adana with Jan, I remember that we went through the old housings even our grand parents as well on the way to Debboy Str. I believe that it was in your collection. Would you mind sending to me of our grandparents housing photos.
Thank you once more reminding me the good old memories from the past.
Hoping to be in touch for the future events to Adana.
A. Cemal Ekin
Dear Erdal, I remember visiting those places with you. Which photographs are the ones you would like to have, are they in this collection? That way, I can identify the photographs better too. I’ll be happy to send them over. Take care and best to you all.
Erdal Kamışlı
Dear Cemal ,
Photographs of our grandparents housing is in this collection . As you can see above i identified first 3 photos in the collection . I will be happy if you also send me the interior shootings of our grandparents housing. We are thinking about renovating the housing to keep the good old memories alive .
Thank you and take care Cemal Abi .
A. Cemal Ekin
Yes, of course. I remember now. I will e-mail those photographs to you Erdal.
Take care,
Cemal
RAMAZAN KAMARI
Dear Cemal,
I am with dear my friend Haluk. I visited last month Adana. I have take photographs in Tebebağ and other old city regions. Conditions are very bad. Turkey’s law of inheritance is blocking restorations. Every building are belong 50-100 inheritors. I am hopeless…
Best wishes.
A. Cemal Ekin
Ramazan, I did not know you were friends with Haluk. Yes, the current laws are stacked against protecting historic structures. I hope that one day (soon) people will appreciate the importance of heritage and try to protect these buildings and other historic landmarks. Take care.
Sal Capirchio
Cemal-
The town and the buildings have such character. You can “feel the age” through the color, shape, and the texture. I’m hoping that they can continue to survive the test of time! It is amazing to me that some of those balconies are still on and attached to the buildings. It definitely does give me a sense of foreboding, but does continue to intrigue. I have seen these in the past, but always see different details that I may have missed in the past.
Beautiful images.
-Sal
A. Cemal Ekin
I remember these buildings when they were “younger”, upright, and occupied. It is a shame not to protect them, or if totally useless not to raze them. This is like torture.
Thanks for stopping by Sal.
Cemal