
There are still water-powered mills in Rhode Island. And one of their main products is cornmeal, the core ingredient in johnnycake mixes. Johnnycakes are claimed to have originated in Rhode Island, although they are made and consumed on the East Coast of the US. Kenyon’s Grist Mill has been making cornmeal for their johnnycake mix since 1696.
Grist Mill
For the unacquainted, like me, grist seems to have multiple meanings. Beginning with “grind,” it also means “grain separated from its chaff” and “ground grains.” Whatever the meaning, grist mills have been an institution in New England. The corn ground for johnnycake mixes has been grown and ground around here for a long time. And the number one prepared food from it, johnnycakes, has been controversial in more ways than one.
In a New York Times article dating back to July 15, 1981 (see screen capture):
Are they jonnycakes, johnnycakes, journeycakes, or Shawnee cakes? Are they made with milk or water? Are they thick or thin, wide or small?
A century ago, the Rhode Island Legislature attempted to settle the question once and for all. Stoves were hauled into the capitol’s rotunda and several “authentic” johnnycake recipes were tested to determine which was best. A fistfight broke out; nothing was settled.
“To this day, the biggest word about johnnycakes is controversy, everything about them is controversial,” observes Paul E. T. Drumm Jr., owner of Kenyon’s Corn Meal Company in Usquepaugh, which he describes as “the world’s largest seller of johnnycake mix.”
NY Times, July 15, 1981
Revisiting Kenyon’s Grist Mill
On a warm Saturday towards the end of October, I took Jan back to Kenyon’s Mill. We had visited the mill before, back in 2002! It was an enjoyable ride on an 80-degree warm day. As we arrived, I noticed the shortage of parking spaces and pulled into the mill’s lot. As I got out, I saw a man who looked like he might be the owner and asked if I could leave the car for a little while there. He said he wanted to pull his truck there with an appliance in the back to unload it and showed me a spot across the street.
As I parked the car and returned, Jan was chatting with Paul Drumm, III, the current owner and the son of Mr. Drumm Jr., quoted above. Mr. Drumm told us jokes and how he used to kid his father as he gave tours of the mill to visitors: “Are you making up stories again, Dad?”
Same Scenery and Feel
We slowly walked behind the mill to the edge of the pond Glen Rock Reservoir. After twenty years, it is hard to be sure, but we saw very little change both in the mill and the vista. The massive oak tree was still there, and a few smaller trees across the water reminded me of some I saw two decades ago.
We took photographs, walked to the edge, and took pictures of the falls. Wanting a more direct view of the falls, we probably walked into someone’s property. Between two sheds was a clear view of the falls head-on. Jan and I took turns to photograph it. Then, it was time to return home.
Old Photographs – 2002
I searched my collection of photographs and found about six or seven taken back in 2002. I shared them with Mr. Drumm via e-mail and will share them here, along with the new ones we took on this trip. It was fun to spend a warm October afternoon at one of the historical sites of Rhode Island. Maybe Jan will find her recipe. We will share it here and eat the johnnycakes at home!
Click on the images to see them larger, uncropped, and read their titles.






Jan’s Photographs – 2023












Cemal’s Photographs









Haluk Atamal
Thanks for sharing the stunning autumn colours, Cemal. They are beautiful.
I could not see the mill proper itself – or am I missing it?
Take care and best regards,
Haluk
A. Cemal Ekin
Hello, Haluk,
The parking lot in front of the mill had a couple of trucks covering the scene. The only one of the mill is one of Jan’s photographs from the back side. We were planning to go again and take pictures of the mill while at work but could not arrange it.
Take care,
Cemal
James Turner
The rerflections are the best. Nice images from both. Luv Jan’s side of the building with juxtapose windows
A. Cemal Ekin
Thanks, Jim. You are right about Jan’s frame of the back side of the building. It was a good outing, nice weather, not much walking!
Cemal