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Ceiling of Taxiarches - 2016

A Disappointing Restoration Project

November 3, 2016 by A. Cemal Ekin
Ceiling of Taxiarches - 2016

I strongly favor keeping the old architecture alive, restoration, repurposing, and keeping the texture of cities and towns to the extent possible. This, I see in Rhode Island where I live, and nearby states. In fact, I saw 100-year-old photographs of New York compared to photographs taken from the same locations, and the texture and fabric of the locales have been maintained remarkably well. I am going to refrain making comments about the changes in Istanbul, that is a future post. This post is about Taxiarches, an old Eastern Orthodox church on the island of Cunda in Ayvalik. The above photograph shows its restored and structurally sound interior. Why complain?

I visited the Taxiarches Church many times and every time I felt sorry for the structure in total disrepair and feared that it might collapse at any time. The columns largely shed their plaster, showing their wooden skeleton; the ceiling barely there; all the frescoes defaced and faded; and the floors creaking as if they would break under my feet. I am not an architect or art historian, so I cannot speak to the significance of the building. But it always appeared as if begging for some help.

Fresco defaced - 2003
Fresco defaced – 2003
Fresco restored - 2016
Fresco restored – 2016

This year we visited Cunda again and went to see the newly restored Taxiarches Church housing the Rahmi Koç Museum. As we slowly walked towards the building the clean façade, robust stonework made it pleasantly clear that the structure received the attention it very much needed. We bought our tickets and entered the building to see the cleaned up and nicely restored ceiling, the solid-looking columns, the sturdy floor and …  the contents of the museum!

As nice as the restoration had been, the cluttered collection inside made no sense at all. The odds and ends Mr. Koç, a prominent industrialist, has collected as a hobby seemed to have spilled over his earlier museums and found home here in Taxiarches. Scale car models, a set of Morgans, greeted us in the first glass case sitting in front of an old car and a phaeton carriage. In another case were some medical equipment like syringes were on display. Behind them, a steam engine, a display case full of nautical instruments, and many other odd items created an organized clutter.

As grateful as I felt for the restoration of the building, I felt equally disappointed for the purpose of the space, a fancy storage facility for totally unrelated items. Now, I may very well be wrong in this assessment, museum experts, art historians may have a totally different take on the function of the space. The area behind the altar had a glass, or other transparent material for floor showing the lower level and its contents. That might make sense to provide more information about the structure showing what is below and the columns extending below the floor level. However, the large piece of equipment with round wheels sitting in front of frescoes served mere incongruity. I fully realize that olive and olive oil have strong roots in Ayvalik but a large olive press in the courtyard was equally odd, with an old street lamp no less!

My hope is that Mr. Koç will seriously reconsider the use and build a suitable modern structure, or find an old storage facility to restore and move his collection there. That will allow the church to be used for other cultural and religious functions. I can think of prayer services on special days; a venue for concerts, various conferences, town meetings; and the like. I even have suggestion for Mr. Koç for a museum, the abandoned orphanage not too far from Taxiarches. That would make a gorgeous space for a museum.

That’s when I will be truly grateful for his generosity.

Taxiarches - 2003
Taxiarches - 2016
Taxiarches - 2003
Taxiarches - 2003
Taxiarches - 2016
Now used as room and board - 2003
Now used as room and board - 2016
Ceiling of Taxiarches - 2003
Ceiling of Taxiarches - 2003
Taxiarches restored - 2016
Fresco defaced - 2003
Fresco restored - 2016
Museum display items, a set of Morgan car models
Taxiarches converted to a museum - 2016
Restored ceiling of Taxiarches - 2016
Restored ceiling of Taxiarches - 2016
Taxiarches converted to a museum - 2016
Restored fresco - 2016
Taxiarches restored altar - 2016
Mina dancing on the glass floor in Taxiarches - 2016
The view below through the glass floor
The view below through the glass floor
Taxiarches restored - 2016
Taxiarches restored - 2016
Olive presses in the courtyard of Taxiarches - 2016
Olive presses in the courtyard of Taxiarches - 2016
Olive presses in the courtyard of Taxiarches - 2016

Category: Architecture, TravelTag: Ayvalik, Istanbul, Photography, Travel, Turkey

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Suleyman

    November 3, 2016 at 1:57 pm

    Very well said! I’ve seen the place and felt kind of weird inside with its out-of-place contents. Hislerimin tercumani oldun, Cemal Hocam. Gozune, kalemine saglik.
    Suleyman

    • A. Cemal Ekin

      November 3, 2016 at 2:03 pm

      Selam Suleyman, I am surprised that nobody has said much about this. I searched to see if there were comments, everything is about reporting the opening of the new Koc museum. It is hard not to be disappointed after seeing medical syringes and model cars displayed inside a historic building, a church. I wonder if there are any mosques in Turkey used the same way?

      Cemal

  2. Haluk Atamal

    November 3, 2016 at 2:47 pm

    Weird – if nothing else.
    I am badly dis-balanced in that I very much cheer your viewpoint while I also have (had?) big respect for the artistic tastes of the Koç family.

    As you said, we all hope for the good intentions you mentioned at the end.
    After all, to err is human.

    Thanks for the bravado-full sharing, Cemal!

    • A. Cemal Ekin

      November 3, 2016 at 3:14 pm

      Haluk, I visited the Koc museum on the Golden Horn which restored an old storage facility for museum purpose. That made much sense. But in a small town like Ayvalik, on even a smaller island attached to it, Cunda, being a good community leader is important. As you said, weird! That space would have made a great concert venue, there is even a local music academy, AIMA.

      This restoration is like saying “the operation is successful, but the patient has died!”

      Cemal

  3. Binnaz Melin

    November 3, 2016 at 3:12 pm

    Doğru söze kim ne der?

    • A. Cemal Ekin

      November 3, 2016 at 3:16 pm

      Hem de benim sozume kim kulak asar! Ama soylemek de gerek galiba. Hic bu konuda yazilmis bir sey bulamadim, hayret; ne olumlu, ne de olumsuz yazan olmus.

      Cemal

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