Apple iPad

Apple introduced with the usual fanfare its new entry to the market: iPad. Many have started test-drooling over the pictures and Job’s cool presentation. Others, like me, see it as a stretched iPod Touch, which it is. I have read on various blogs “imagine taking your photography portfolio to a gallery on an iPad” and similar comments. Frankly, I think that will emphasize the technology of the presentation rather than the art in the photographs. After all, iPad will not be hanging on the wall, a beautiful print will.

One potential use of iPad highly interests me and I believe it will be the killer app for iPad. Add two features for photographers and it will start selling like hot cakes. First, add a CompactFlash and an SD card reader. This will make it irresistible to photographers. Imagine being able to store and back up your photos in the field and see them on a 10″ screen for field proofing. Second, put an application on iPad that allows it to directly tether to the DSLRs which will make it indispensable to the same crowd. Think about it, you are looking at a 10″ screen to preview your photograph while controlling the camera features from the same screen. You can do the same now but you need a laptop for that which is larger and bulkier. Until then, iPad will remain an oversize iPod Touch.

Are you listening Acer, HP, Dell, Asus, …?

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… imagine the next generation of cameras that, by using more powerful on-board computers, could converge computing and photography. As I write this piece, researchers are busy working on various experiments, experimental cameras that are collectively called “computational photography.” Where there is now some time and space separation between the taking of the photographs and later processing on a separate computers, the new generation of cameras will likely merge these separate activities into one device.

These cameras that bring discrete steps together into a seamless process will bring some very exciting capabilities to photography. Imagine the following:

• A camera that can record scenes with 10-12 f-stop brightness range, maybe even more
• A lens that captures an image with information that comes from three separate points and can generate a 3D rendering of the subject that can be seen from different angles
• A camera that allows photographing a scene and later deciding on the plane of focus
• A camera that captures 360 degree horizontal field of view and 200+ degree vertical
• A camera that captures a group photograph where everyone’s expression is as desired, no closed eyes

Now, imagine that these are not some fancy of my imagination and they actually exist!

And you thought the digital-vs-film debate was heated…

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I have found inexpensive cosmetic brushes sold at drugstores very convenient to dust off the exterior surfaces of my cameras and lenses. These brushes come in different fullness and size depending on the purpose. I carry a couple of them in my camera bag to dust off the gear. DO NOT USE THESE BRUSHES ON YOUR LENS GLASS OR FILTERS. They may possibly do damage to the coating.

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My rule of thumb is “use the heaviest tripod you can afford, financially and physically.” That said, there are conflicting objectives in choosing a tripod. On the one hand, you should use a heavy tripod for stability, on the other hand, a heavy tripod becomes a burden to carry in the field. Sturdiness of a tripod is directly related to its weight and mass, thus my rule-of-thumb. So, we all make compromises and choose one that has rigidity (not to be confused with sturdiness, in my opinion) and transportability. Some have hooks at the bottom of the center column from which extra weight can be hung in the field, adding to its weight and therefore to its sturdiness.

The carbon fiber and other alloys are becoming the popular choices in the leg assemblies. They provide rigidity and light weight for transportability. There are models in every manufacturer’s product line up. Manfrotto, Gitzo, Slik, Hakuba, … Prices vary according to brand and technology built into the product, its perceived value. Other things to consider in choosing the legs are the number of leg sections, center column articulation (tilt, removability, etc), leg tips with or without metal spikes, lever or collar locks on the leg sections, minimum and maximum height it can be set at, extra leg spread. Fewer leg sections are easier to set up, but they do not collapse as much if you want to put the tripod in your suitcase. Most center columns, not all, at least go up and down, and some tilt 90-degrees for shots that require looking down. Other designs may allow removing the center column and mounting it horizontally for the same result. Yet some center column designs have very short stubs which allow spreading the tripod legs and getting the camera lower. So, consider the type of photography you do and see which type may be more practical for your purposes. I do a good deal of stitched panoramas where perfectly horizontal rotation of the camera is essential. I opted for a Manfrotto model that has a built in leveling base built in to the center column. This allows me to level the base of the head so the rotation will be on the level.

Then comes the selection of a tripod head. Some prefer pan and tilt heads with independent controls for tilting the head on two separate horizontal axes, plus a rotation on the vertical one. The advantage of these is the ability to change the camera angle on one axis without disturbing the position on the others. The disadvantage is that additional control handles add bulk in carrying and in the field it is more diffucult to quickly change the camera position. Others prefer a ball had which comes in many different sizes and weights, but offering essentially the same control. Typically, one knob will loosen the ball head allowing it to move in any direction. The advantages are the lower weight, less bulk, and quciker camera angle set up. The maing disadvantage is the difficulty in maintaining the camera position on any axis stationary. The popular ball head brands are Arca Swiss, Markins, Acratech, Bogen. When choosing a tripod head, the most important feature for me is the lack of slippage. If I set the camera at a particular position while holding it, I do not want the camera move even the slightest bit after I tighten the friction knob and let go of the camera. Then comes the weight of the head, some are far too heavy to put on a light-wight tripod, negating the advantage of a carbon fiber leg set. I own a couple of tripod heads, Acratech and Markins, they are both excellent in this regard. The weight carrying ability of the head is also important. If you use long and heavy lenses, you should make sure that the head is designed to carry the load that you put on it.

Before buying a tripod and a head assembly, try to see the combo in person. In promotional material and in photographs, they all look wonderful. Also try the leg locking mechanisms, some swear by the flip locks, others swear at them. The same goes for the rotate-to-tighten collars.

Good luck in finding the ideal tripod. Many photographers have at least three, maybe even more tripods.

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I tried using window cleaners, eyeglass sprays, moist towels with their unique shortcomings. All the liquids I mentioned run to the bottom of the monitor and the moist towels don’t have enough oomph. Then I stumbled on to the idea of putting a dab of Purell, or its equivalent on paper towel and wiping the glass with that. I tell you, it works like a charm, it stays where you put it with no runs racing to get between the monitor and the bezel. These hand sanitizers are thickened alcohol and do a great job on my monitor. I use it to clean the plastic exterior too.
BEFORE you use it on your monitor, try it on the outside edge to make sure that it will not cause any discoloration. Also, do not try this on LCD monitors, they may have a micro etched surface which may not like this treatment.

I am telling you what I do, what you do is up to you.

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