A Different Way of Seeing

At a recent PSRI meeting, the guest speaker Andre Gallant presented several different techniques he used to create some of his photographs. Some techniques were the results of aspirations for paintings, with which I fully disagree, yet others explored the photographic capture of movement and recording longer passages of time in one frame.

Combining multiple images of the same scene results in a different look. Although Andre achieved this result in-camera using Nikon equipment, the same result can be obtained with any camera and a little extra work. The reward for the extra work is the additional flexibility one can gain during the after capture processing. I will explain a couple of methods for this, and believe it or not, one method will actually capture in-camera multiple images using Canon gear, even a small PowerShot G9. But, before going any further, let me also add a piece of news: The newly announced Canon EOS 5D Mark-III will do in camera multiple image capture on one frame. Get ready to shell out $3,500 or read the rest of this post and use your existing Canon gear.

The general approach to taking photographs is to “properly expose” the shot, everything looks sharp, with good tones, and color. What if, instead of properly exposing the shot, I deliberately underexpose a series of them and then add them together. That is what in-camera processing does anyway. As a starting point, let’s visualize a scene that requires the following settings for proper exposure: Shutter speed = 1/100 ; and f-stop = 8. To create what Andre called expressive photography, we need a number of frames captured. If I want to combine 10 frames for that effect, each frame needs one-tenth the normal exposure, meaning 1/1,000 of a second. So, to proceed:

  1. Measure the proper exposure for the scene
  2. Turn off auto focus, and use manual exposure setting
  3. Do not change the f-stop
  4. Divide the “proper” exposure by the number of frames you would like to combine to arrive at the adjusted shutter speed (in the example above, we moved from 1/100 to 1/1,000 for 10 shot set)
  5. Do not use a tripod, turn off image stabilization
  6. Now shoot the number of frames you wanted (in the example 10), and shoot a few more anyway

On frame of eight to be stackedOn the left you see one of my frames out of a total of 8. All the others look the same, so I am not going to clutter the post with more. But you can see how the exposure looks. This series was taken on 7/9/2004. We now need to bring all the frames, even if you have a few extras, into Photoshop as layers. I believe this will also work in Photoshop Elements but I cannot be certain about that.

The easiest is to use either Lightroom or Adobe Bridge and select all the frames you would like to combine into a single composite photograph. Then, right click on any one of them and choose Edit In/Open as Layers in Photoshop. This will push the selected files to Photoshop and add each as a separate layer in the same file.

Multiple images opened as layers in PhotoshopIf you do not use Lightroom or Bridge, you may have to open each as a separate file and drag and drop each one at a time on one of them, which one is not important. When dragging and dropping, use the Shift key to automatically center each layer properly. In the end you will have a Photoshop document with many layers. A screen capture of my image layers in Photoshop is on the right. Pay attention to the drop-down menu pointed by the red arrow. That is where the blending magic happens.

What we want to produce is a some sort of an additive result of all the layers. Starting at the top, click on each layer and then change the blending mode of that layer to “Linear Dodge (Add)”. Finished photograph, with default optionsAs you do this you will notice your image getting brighter and brighter. At the end you will have an image like the one on the right. If you did this in camera, the result would have been the same. The advantage of in-camera processing is that you can see the result in the field, that’s nice. Advantage of doing it in post processing is that you have many more options you can exercise. Like:

  1. Use “Screen” or “Lighten” blend modes instead of “Linear Dodge”, different results
  2. Use a mixture of the blend modes in this group for even more variations
  3. Change the opacity of each layer to reduce its impact on the total
  4. Eliminate some layers
  5. Even selecting all layers, the “Edit/Auto Align Layers” and choose “Reposition” to have a more orderly placement of the elements still with enough movement in it.
  6. If you like, you can move any layer by clicking on its thumbnail and then using the arrow keys for small movements or simply drag it around with your mouse on the image.

I have not even mentioned the possibility of using blend modes from the other blend mode blocks you will see.

Now, back to where I said to shoot a few more anyway. You can bring more layers and use them in the same process; there is nothing written in stone here. In fact, the name of the game is experimenting. So, if you had 15 shots instead of the calculated 10, when you add the extra 5 images you will be slightly “over exposing” the end result. That will also give you the option of turning off some layers that may seem too far from the alignment or manifest other kind of unwanted behavior. You can turn any layer off by clicking on the eye icon to the left of the layer.

This process can be used with the camera movements Andre described, panning up, down, right, left, jiggle, and a quick and short swoosh like Nike (actually, I beg to differ, it is actually an ekiN swoosh). In the next post, I will explain a very different technique that will allow you to capture many images on a single frame using Canon gear, how’bout that!

Below are some photographs I have produced while exploring the impact of motion and passage of time photographically. Some are long exposures with subject movement, others long exposures with camera movement, you will find multiple image combinations, and a couple teasers for the next post with a single frame multiple image capture with Canon gear.

And, please do not flatter me by calling these “painterly”; I am proud to be a photographer and do not have brush-envy!

Photographing Dance

Although generally defined by physical movement, one can find the spirit of dancing in stationary objects. That was my experience that started a few years back when I let the spent flowers of an orchid plant to dry on their own. Depending on where they fell, what they rested on, or the environmental conditions, each dead blossom took a shape of itself. Upon carefully looking at them, I sensed motion, movement, as if they were ballet dancers captured mid air. That gave birth the the collection I call “Dance of the Orchids”.

Since I saw them “dancing” I wanted to photograph actual dancers responding to the dried orchid flowers, frozen in their assumed dancing poses. Recently I sought opinion from a friend, a ballerina, and asked her to take a look at these shriveled orchids and see if she saw what I had seen in them. I was pleased to hear that she agreed with my perception and even brought me in contact with the artistic director of the Festival Ballet Providence, Mihailo (Misha) Djuric. Misha embraced the idea and expanded on it, and we are currently in the development stages of a new photographic and ballet project. Where and how far it will eventually go is difficult to assess at this point but this was my initiation to the world of photographing dance.

I told Misha that I wanted to practice photographing dance to get a sense of rhythm, timing, motion, etc. of the actual performance. He encouraged me to go to the dress rehearsal to start the learning process. I have found the experience moving (pun intended), very unlike other photographic projects, challenging on different fronts. The lighting is dim, requiring high ISO settings on the camera which results in more noise. It is also uneven, what is brightly lit one moment of movement may become a dim apparition three feet away. On top of that, anticipating the flow of the movement is a particular challenge to me as I have no training in music or ballet. The first group of photographs below are from the dress rehearsal. Although there are photographs among them that will satisfy me from a photographic perspective, I am not sure how satisfying they may be from a ballet performance angle. Yet, Misha told me that he might be interested in using a few of them, which I was glad to hear.

The next day, we bought tickets for the fundraising event and Jan and I went to watch the live performance. Taking place in a very intimate setting of the studio space of the Festival ballet Providence, one could see the dancers sweat, hear them breathe, and experience dance at a touching distance away. I know some may find it too close, but for me it was a very enjoyable experience. During the intermission I told Misha that I would really welcome an opportunity to photograph a live performance. And to my surprise he said I could so long as I did not use a flash and the red focusing aid lights that the cameras emit. I could turn both off and I went to the live performance the next day and Misha stationed me on the small landing place and the few steps behind the sound and lighting control corner. There I spent the entire performance photographing the dancers as they moved in and out of my range, bright and dim. Since I saw the same performance the night before, I was expecting some movements, and I had also reevaluated and changed my shooting strategy. The next group of photographs are from the live performance taken on February 18, 2012.

I will go back again, live performance or dress rehearsal and continue my learning of photographing movement, intensity, and grace of ballet dancers. Eventually, we will converge on the original idea that started it all, relating Dance of the Orchids to the dancers and choreographers response to their dried and frozen state. I am looking forward to those shooting sessions and hoping that my skills will be ready to to capture those fleeting moments.

Festival Ballet ProvidenceTo all the staff of the Festival Ballet Providence, thank you for allowing me into your world. I will be glad to share some of these photographs with you. I have created a collection of them in a PDF magazine format the cover of which is on the left. Send me a note if you like to have your own copy, if your name is associated with the FBP, staff, dancer, board member that I can see on the Web site, I will e-mail you a copy for your own use.

I will also welcome feedback on the photographs either in the form of comments here for everyone to see or an e-mail to me at ac.ekin (at) keptlight (dot) com. These comments, which may take a little time for me to see and approve them, and feedback will help me improve my technique and understanding photographing dance. Remember one thing though, in these series my intention is to photograph the “dance” rather than the “dancer”. Although often times it may be difficult to separate one from the other, do not expect these to look like studio photographs with controlled and abundant light, props, and many posing attempts. I would like these to show the intensity of a live performance, motion rather than static pose, and theatrical lighting. With these in mind, fire away and help me learn.

 

What exactly is H-D-R?

There are possibly millions of photographs floating on the Internet with the indication that they represent HDR photography. Many, if not most of such photographs manifest the tell-tale signs of “HDR Photography” with choked light in the highlights and the shadows and wide halos around the edges. Calling these HDR Photographs is quite simply wrong. H=High, D=Dynamic, R=Range refers to the dynamic range of the scene, not what you see in the photograph. When a photograph is taken, the dynamic range inherent in the scene is converted to what the sensor or the film can record. This is not a new phenomenon. In the 19th century due to the limitations of the emulsions, photographers could not record the tonal range of a landscape with the information in the sky intact. The scene had high dynamic range and the film, or the emulsion, was incapable of recording the tonal range in the sky in a single exposure.

Gustave Le Gray, the original "HDR Photographer"

Gustave Le Gray, the original "HDR Photographer"

Masters like Gustave Le Gray dealt with this problem by taking two photographs, one for the sky and one for the land or seascape, and then printing the sky from the properly exposed sky negative. Later, when panchromatic film was developed with more even sensitivity to colors and with greater recording range the problem was mostly handled by careful exposure and possibly using appropriate developers and developing process. This resulted in film recording a wider range of scene dynamic range but nobody called the resulting negative or the photograph HDR. The scene they photographed still contained a very high dynamic range.

Each generation of film, negative or slide, brought better handling of the scene brightness range. Yet, under demanding conditions photographers resorted to special developers or simply accepted the fact that there was a limit to what the film could record. Of course the Le Gray technique was still available to those who wanted to use it.

Enter digital photography, with its capabilities and limitations. Early sensors did not offer the dynamic range of good film, but each generation of sensors expanded the ability of the sensors to record greater dynamic range.

At this point it is important to talk about the recorded image, digital or film. Directly captured photographs yield images that are device-referred, that is what you see is determined by the capability of the device you are using. Part of the problem also lies with the way we record digital images, in 8-bit to 14-bit formats and convert them to at best 16-bit files. What that means is that in an 8-bit image there are 256 shades of gray that define each of the primary colors, Red, Green, and Blue. Although currently the best digital cameras do not record in 16-bit, they will likely do so in the not too distant future. In 16-bit images each of the RGB channels can use 65536 shades to represent their color. This is still device-referred, and although a 16-bit image can carry much more information it is still woefully inadequate to encode the scene brightness with adequate faithfulness. Some new cameras even create “HDR” on the fly by exposing several frames and combining them for a single photograph that accommodates the bright highlights as well as the shadow detail. Here in-camera processing may produce a more faithful photograph, at least as a starting point, free from artificial grunge halos or other “HDR” artifacts people cannot resist injecting. (See another photographer’s views and information on in-camera HDR.)

With the accessibility of HDR image formats (there are different ones like Radiance, OpenEXR) the possibility of creating files that are scene-referred emerged. The technology that we call HDR goes back to 1985 when it was developed by Greg Ward. In 1997 Paul Debevec presented in his paper a way to create HDR images from photographs, and the rest is history, as they say. The HDR file format—and I am not talking about what is called HDR Photography—is a 32-bit floating point image format. The jump from 16-bit to 32-bit should not be construed as “twice as much as 16-bit”. The critical change here is the “floating point” encoding of images. Where both 8- and 16-bit formats are capable of using only whole numbers like Red=32, Green=120, and Blue=200, the floating point format allows each color to have decimal fractions, like .562902. There are different HDR file formats (again, not photographs you see) and they can contain about 10-76 orders of magnitude of dynamic range (10, followed by 10 or 76 zeroes), now that is big! This gives the HDR file format the ability to contain an incredible range of scene brightness information. This format, since it contains full scene brightness information, is called “scene-referred” and this file can be processed just as if we are “photographing” that scene at different exposures.

This is all great but the resulting brightness range in an HDR file (not the photograph!) is enormously wider than what our measly display monitors can handle. What are we to do? Well, one option is to shell out upwards of $40,000 to purchase Professional Reference Monitor PRM-4200 from Dolby labs. Dolby acquired the BrightSide technology and improved upon it to offer this magnificent and magnificently expensive HDR display. This is not a real solution for mere mortals! The second option is to map the tones in the HDR file to that of a 16-bit or 8-bit file format which the current crop of displays can do a decent job of presenting it to many viewers.

You see, there is indeed an HDR image format but we cannot view it unless it is converted to LDR, Low Dynamic Range. The creation of the HDR image file from a series of digital captures about 2-stops apart is almost purely scientific process. At this stage there are not many options other than a few like reducing the chromatic aberration, image alignment, or eliminating ghosting that may be introduced by slightly moving objects like a tree branch. Then the algorithm goes and creates the best scene-referred HDR file it can. No artistic involvement there, just gather the information and store it in a format that can be extracted in different ways according to needs. So the “real HDR photograph” is a bundle of information that cannot be viewed in its entirety using standard equipment. In the process of creating the HDR file, we may view parts of it as Photomatix viewer provides for instance.

HDR Badly Done

Why is this an "artistic look"?

What is erroneously called an “HDR Photograph” is the result of tone-mapping and different tone-mapping engines may produce slightly, or significantly different results. In this conversion several things are attempted to bring under control. Overall scene contrast and brightness range is one, then the micro contrast which controls the contrast between adjacent areas of different tonality. Due to the nature of the process of micro-contrast and smoothing adjustments, some halos are intentionally or unintentionally introduced. This is what most HDR Photographs seem to strive to show, that’s why I asserted that this result has nothing to do with HDR recording and this kind of photograph need not come from multiple exposures. Indeed, you will find many examples of “single file HDR” which mainly go after the altered look rather than to capture a wide dynamic range. Whether you like this look, which is also called “the grunge look”, or surreal look, is a matter of taste. My taste in photography and proper use of the tools makes them unattractive to me. Not because they are HDR, which they are not, because I was there at the beginning of “HDR revolution”. I used to manually blend a linear conversion with one that was developed for the shadows from a single capture. (See related posts.) That was essentially an attempt to do what Le Gary did in the 19th century, the original HDR Photographer! That method is now incorporated into software like Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw to extract the full 14-bit information in a way we would like to render it by using the appropriate sliders. Creating a linear conversion has become quite obscure as most software do not even show the linear encoded image, although I suspect Breeze Browser may still provide a linear conversion. (I checked, it still provides Linear Conversion as well as a “combined” option)

The main use of the HDR technology is to capture as much brightness information from a scene as possible and then decide how best to present the scene, on screen or in print. The current trend in the “grunge look” is the result of the early tools not being very capable and some early users not getting the hang of the tool and creating unwanted halos; believe me in those days halos were unwanted. They took the “artistic” defense and claimed that it was their interpretation and the technology that is also known as HDR got forever, and regrettably linked to that look. A well done photograph using HDR intermediary step and careful tone-mapping should look like, well, a properly exposed photograph with rich tonal range and detail. That was, and to me still is, the main purpose of developing this technology. HDR is also used in films, yet we do not recall any wide halos from Matrix or Spiderman series which used HDRI. Much of the CGI special effects also use HDRI with none of the tell-tale signs of “grunge”.

Let us call a spade, a spade. Grunge may be a look, but is not HDR. Sure, poorly handled tone-mapping after HDR creation may yield wide halos, but not because the source is HDR but because the user is either not careful in using the tone-mapping process or s/he is making an “artistic” statement. It still begs the question, why go through all that trouble of capturing the immense range and then pull everything to the mid-tones augmented by the grunge halos? You can easily do that practically with any photograph.

Imagine in the film days Kodak or Fuji announcing the “New HDR Film Capable of Recording 18-Stop Range Of Brightness”. Would we have taken photographs with that film and then immediately start to scratch the edges? It sounds silly, right? Of course it does because it is silly to think of scratching the film that contains that gorgeous photograph. Why do we feel compelled to do exactly the same thing on our gorgeous photographs digitally captured?

Beats me!

 

 

 

MagCloud Contest

MagClolud Contest Runner Up: Hagia Sophia ExperienceAs the followers of this site probably know, I had submitted my publication “The Hagia Sophia Experience” to a contest run by MagCloud on facebook. I thank all the supporters for their votes and dedication to visit the competition site every day to cast another vote. The results are in and The Hagia Sophia Experience is a runner up. I had heard from MagCloud about the competition results but wanted to wait until they announced the results on their site.

My sincere appreciation for all the support I have received and my congratulations to the winners of the contest.

PS MagCloud is running a sale on all full-priced publications through February 14, 2012.

A New Gallery

FloraI have opened a new gallery, Flora, which features 38 flower and plant photographs. The underlying theme is the monochrome treatment of the flowers to focus on their shapes and forms. The gentle platinum-toning is a little nostalgic touch and homage to the old masters of photography who used this and other similar printing techniques.

Some of the photographs are now available as single prints in the store at an introductory price, you will want to own several for your collection or for gift giving.

A magazine format portfolio of the collection is in the works and will be released in the next couple of weeks, stay tuned. In the mean time, enjoy the cover of this portfolio on the left.